Experiencing magical North Norwegian hospitality
Arriving in Oslo, I had heard from various sources that ‘Norwegians may not seem the friendliest, but once you get to know someone, they are endlessly hospitable with a ‘my home is your home’ mentality - especially the further north you get’. Having spent a month in Oslo with a mix of experiences - some people reluctant to engage and others very friendly (usually younger or a different nationality!) I headed far north to Lofoten and Andoya, and after spending the week up there, felt compelled to try to put my experience into words for you.
Arriving in Lofoten, I am a friend of a friend of a friend and very much the privileged gatecrasher on this little adventure. After flying, ferrying and bussing through jaw dropping scenery we arrive in Leknes, our home base for the week. We are welcomed into the home of Solveig; mother of Bjorn-Richard, best friend of Wawan, who is a close friend of Will - my delightful friend of 20 years who I met on our uni placement year in London. Solveig and Wawan have spent the past 5 hours making fiskekakker (fishcakes) for our arrival, utilising some of the 7kgs of flounder caught the day before. We are ushered outside into reclining armchairs on the sun drenched patio. Solveig herself could not have welcomed us with more warmth, placing her hands on heart and telling us ‘welcome into my home’. We chat outside, and lap up every morsel of the delicious fishcake burgers on brioche with spicy mayo and crispy lettuce. Everyone speaks English, but as Solveig says her English is not so good I make sure she understands how delicious and appreciated her food efforts have been for us with enthusiastic exclamations of happiness!
Next Bjorn-Richard drives us on to the place we will be sleeping, home of Britt Jorunn, a long time friend of his. Heading down a single track we arrive at her home - walking in we are greeted with the view that will astound me every time I see it. Windows wrap around the lounge to reveal a 180 degree view of dramatic mountains, ocean and a multitude of rocky bays - all on their private land. HEAVEN. Britt Jorunn opens her arms and wraps me in a hug saying ‘you are very welcome here, treat my home as your home’. To her, I am a completely random woman and I am being welcomed like a long lost friend or family member, I am so touched. We settle on the outdoor decking with cups of tea and enjoy the evening sun, lapping ocean and view that astounds me just thinking of it.
Will and I decide that after a fair day of travel, we need to be baptised by the Lofoten sea, so we strip off and wade into the very fresh water, swimming surrounded by nothing other than mountains and human kindness. Bjorn Richard tells us this beautiful weather is rare and we must make the most of this ‘golden ticket’ by hiking a nearby mountain to see the midnight setting sun. We start the hike at 10.30pm, it's a steep hour’s climb and we are indeed rewarded by a breathtaking deep orange ball of fire descending towards the horizon and colouring the sky rose and mauve. Settling into our comfy beds around 1am I feel that sense of wonder again ‘what is this place and how did I end up here?’ (If you have been following my adventures this year you will see this is a theme!)
The next day we are picked up by Bjorn Richard (possibly the kindest man in the world?) and driven to the tiny fishing port of Napp where we are greeted by his friend Angelita and her boat - a gorgeous Norwegian woman who after living in Australia, returned to Lofoten to set up an amazing seaweed harvesting company ‘Lofoten Seaweed’ with her best friend, Tamara. We head out into the open sea, passing craggy outcrops and remote cabins - the kind that make me dream of being locked away with sheepskin rugs, a roaring fire and a pile of books! Docking at our destination I cannot believe the name of this tiny fishing village emblazoned across the wooden awning ahead of us - ‘NUSFJORD’. I have been living in Knutsford, England for the past decade of my life and here I am, at its twin in the north or Norway - goosebumps! We sit outside eating delicious fish and chips, peruse the beautiful local local art gallery and try the rhubarb pastries in a 108 year old bakery. As we sail away, I am aware that I would give at least one limb to be able to stay in this part of the world a little longer.
Already feeling as though we’d packed all the wonders of the world into the last two days, the next day we head to ‘Norway’s most beautiful beach’ only a short drive from where we are staying. Its white sands and dazzling crystal turquoise waters live up to the name - and I don’t say that lightly, having visited stunning parts of Australia and the Caribbean. We swim in its cool waters and lie on the sand, soaking up the magic of the mountains around us. I stayed in the water longer and warming up isn’t easy, as the outside temperature is warm rather than hot!
We hike the mountain next to us and take in the sheer beauty of this spot, taking pictures at the ‘most instagrammable spot’ on the peninsula - it's breathtaking. We head back for a hot shower before driving over to another new friend Berit’s gorgeous cabin for a 90’s karaoke party. From Norway, she was living in Cambridge before deciding it was time to create the lifestyle she craved; now she lives between this cabin nestled in the mountains and the nearby town of Tromso, where she teaches. She also plays bass. We all agree she is super cool and when she says her cabin is available to rent whilst she is on sabbatical, I hear the opportunity landing in front of me. The highlight of the night for me is Wawan singing acapella Mariah Carey (when we struggled for wifi) with his beautiful rich voice, whilst wearing a rainbow emblazoned Mariah Carey t-shirt - what a legend.
The next day we stay home - I catch up on a bit of work and life admin, we drink tea and look out at the mystical, atmospheric view of the ocean and mountains as rain hits the windows. That evening Wawan is hosting his ‘farewell dinner’ - tasty homemade Indonesian dishes of satay chicken skewers, egg and potato curry, spiced cucumber salad and rice. The people gathered around this table have welcomed him into their family as their own, and I feel so lucky to have been a part of this experience and to have met these deeply kind hearted people. I try to take a ‘memory snapshot’ of this scene to keep forever.
The next day Will and I sadly depart, heart heavy - there is not one part of me that wants to leave these people or this place. We cover winding mountain roads by bus (with an unforeseen picnic pit stop in a truck weighing station) and eventually arrive in Sorland, the ‘blue city by the sea’. We are greeted by two of Will’s good friends from Oslo, a (rather good looking) couple called Glenn and Stig. Glenn is from this area and is kindly driving us all up to our next destination, Kvitnes Gard. Very much a treat, this place is different to anything I have experienced before. This is a remote, real old farm, with a team of people tirelessly tending to the land and animals, foraging for local ingredients to transform into an inventive and beautifully presented 20 course tasting menu. Within the cosy, socks-only, candle lit dining room, there is not a thread of pretentiousness. The mission is real - creating a beautiful, interesting, special experience from homegrown ingredients. We love every minute of it and revel in the menu over 6 happy hours. Our company is delightful and I tell Glenn and Stig how wonderful it is for me to make new male friends - they are gracious, kind, fun, interesting, smart, curious. It's beautiful to witness a couple one year into their relationship; they are excited about each other, affectionate and very much in love - it reminds me of what I hopefully have ahead of me at some point.
After a delightful sleep in our rustic chic room, we are heading to the island of Andoya, whilst calling in on Glenn’s mum in Sorland. Yet another warm woman of the north, she invites us to join them for lunch the next day as ‘we are having elk’ - I thank her warmly for such a kind invitation and she says ‘ah we must look after each other’. We head up to the very northern tip of the island and climb Matinden where we are wind whipped as we approach mountain edges so dramatic they look like a dragon's spine disappearing into the sea. The weather makes me feel totally alive - I love it so much and could not be happier amongst the company of these truly lovely humans and this incredible nature. Enroute to our hotel we stop off at a meadow owned by Glenn’s family to pick cloudberries - I do a hopeless job as I spend most of my time marvelling at the scenery - endless mountains, pretty cotton flower covered marshland underfoot and a dusky sky enveloping a lone farm building in the distance. Dreamy…
On our car journey playing music I hear the lyrics ‘it is faith that got us here’ and I feel it in my bones. It has certainly been a trip of ‘signposts’ and I have not a shred of doubt that I am meant to be here.
This area of the world is remote and historically poor, relying heavily on fishing as an industry. Whatever the roots are that have created this loving welcome we have received at every turn, its impact is etched on my heart and I promise myself to take it with me and extend the same kindness to those who land on my doorstep throughout this journey of life.
